Feed my - cucamelon liquid

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Wondering how to grow cucamelons? You’ve come to the right place. Cucamelons may look like a mouse-sized watermelon, but they taste like a cucumber with a citrus kick. Called “sandía de raton” (or “watermelon for a mouse”) in Mexico, cucamelons are also called Mexican Sour Gherkin and Mouse Melon

No matter what you call them, cucamelons are easy to grow and resistant to pests and disease. Learn how to grow cucamelons and add this crunchy, vitamin-packed fruit to your garden. 

Feed my - cucamelon liquid

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6 Tips for How to Grow Cucamelons

1. Understand how cucamelons grow

Cucamelons are a tender perennial; this means they are sensitive to frost but if cared for properly can live for several seasons. Over the course of a season, cucamelons develop an underground tuber

At the end of the season in cold climates, dig out and remove the tuber to overwinter in a sheltered location. Once the plant dies back in mild winter areas, mulch the ground around the roots well and it should survive over the winter and begin to regrow in the spring.

Feed my - cucamelon liquid

2. Plant cucamelons at the right time

Cucamelons thrive in warm, humid weather. Plant cucamelons outside after all danger of frost has passed in the spring, and nighttime temperatures have warmed to about 50℉. 

In the low desert of Arizona (and many other hot summer areas), here are the planting dates for cucamelons:

Start seeds indoors: January – March and July 15 – August

Plant transplants outside: February 15 – April and August 15 – September

In Arizona, spring-planted cucamelons may not produce until cooler temperatures come in the fall. You may get a spring and a fall harvest if you can keep the plant alive over the summer. 

The larger spring-planted cucamelon plants often yield a larger harvest than fall-planted cucamelons. The trick with growing cucamelons in dry, hot summer areas like Arizona is to have them survive the summer heat. 

Feed my - cucamelon liquid

3. Plant cucamelons from seed or transplants in the correct location

In all but the warmest areas, give cucamelons full sun. In very hot summer areas, grow cucamelons in a spot with afternoon shade. 

Plant cucamelon seeds ¼ to ½ inch deep. Seeds generally take between 7-14 days to germinate. Because cucamelon seeds germinate slowly, it can be difficult to start them outdoors. You may want to start seeds indoors 4 weeks before the last spring frost, and then transplant them outside. You can also look for transplants at local nurseries. 

Space cucamelon plants and seeds about a foot apart in a location with compost-rich, well-draining soil. 

How to grow cucamelons in square foot gardening:

Plant one cucamelon plant per square. Plant the cucamelon on the edge of the garden bed and give them something to climb. 

Feed my - cucamelon liquid

How to grow cucamelons in containers: 

  • Grow one plant in a large 12-18 inch container (at least 5 gallons).
  • Give cucamelons in containers something to climb. 

4. Care for growing cucamelons

  • Plants tolerate dry conditions, but do best with regular watering.  
  • Fertilize cucamelon plants once or twice during the growing season with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer to encourage fruiting.
  • Once vines reach about 8 feet, pinch back growing tips to encourage branching and fruiting.
  • Cucamelons produce male and female flowers. Male flowers wither and die; female flowers develop into fruit after pollination.  

Feed my - cucamelon liquid

5. Give cucamelons something to climb

Cucamelons are a sprawling vine that can be difficult to contain. Provide a trellis for the tendrils to climb as the cucamelon vines grow. Growing cucamelons vertically on a trellis allows for better airflow and helps prevent damage from feet and pests. Ripe cucamelons grown on a trellis are also easier to spot and thus harvest.

Feed my - cucamelon liquid

6. Harvest cucamelons at the right time

Feed my - cucamelon liquid

Cucamelons typically begin producing 65-75 days after transplanting. Harvest cucamelons when the fruits are the size of small grapes, firm, and bright green. 

Cucamelons left on the vine past their prime will soften and develop a yellow tint. Pick cucamelons often to encourage production. Leaving cucamelons on the plant signals to the plant to stop producing.

Eat cucamelons fresh like grapes (our favorite way) or slice them and add them to salads. Enjoy them pickled (so cute!) or even added to salsa. 

Harvested cucamelons will store for 5-7 days in the fridge. I love using these containers to help my produce last longer.

Feed my - cucamelon liquid

Bonus Tip: Save seeds from cucamelons to plant and share

At the end of the season, leave a few cucamelons on the vine until they are very overripe, soft, and yellow. These are the perfect stage to save seeds from. 

How to save cucamelon seeds: 

  • Cut cucamelons in half and scrape seeds into a half-pint glass canning jar.
  • Fill the jar partway with water.
  • Allow the water to ferment for 1-2 days (not longer); this removes the gel covering around the seed that prevents germination. 
  • Remove the seeds and pulp that float to the top of the water. 
  • Rinse off the seeds that settle on the bottom of the jar, and let them dry on a paper plate.
  • Store in a paper seed sleeve in a cool, dry location.

Feed my - cucamelon liquid

Feed my - cucamelon liquid

When should you feed cucamelons?

Plants tolerate dry conditions, but do best with regular watering. Fertilize cucamelon plants once or twice during the growing season with a high-potassium liquid fertilizer to encourage fruiting. Once vines reach about 8 feet, pinch back growing tips to encourage branching and fruiting.

How often do you water cucamelons?

Water. Cucamelons prefer moist but not saturated soil, so make sure your plants receive one inch of water per week, including rainfall. If you need to provide supplemental water, using a soaker hose or drip irrigation is ideal.

Why are my cucamelons not getting bigger?

Underwatering – cucamelons, like tomatoes and cucumbers, do need to be regularly watered. If you've been growing them in a greenhouse or polytunnel then it may be that they weren't getting enough water in the heat this year. Lack of pollination – this is a likely cause for the fruits not swelling.