Lactic acid before or after retinol

Chemical exfoliants and retinoids are often considered an essential part of any skincare routine, but which is more important? How do lactic acid vs retinol differ? Can you use them together?

 

The short answer is yes, you can use lactic acid and retinol together, as long as you don’t experience any skin irritation.

 

Here’s the longer answer…

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CeraVe Hydrating Cleanser, £10 | Lookfantastic (opens in new tab)
Not only is this gel cleanser super affordable, but it's also kind to skin too. It works on all skin types and won't strip or cause irritation.
This is Senior Beauty Editor Katie Thomas's favourite everyday cleanser. 'I genuinely believe I have this affordable cleanser to thank for my happy and manageable skin. Often dry and sometimes dehydrated, this has whipped it into shape. So good, my husband now steals it from me.'

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2. Toner

If you enjoy using your best toner and it your skin has no problem with it, do so after cleanser. But whether it's absolutely necessary is widely debated. 'I'm not a big fan of toners as they often irritate the skin,' says consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Kluk (opens in new tab).

'Not all skin types need a toner,' adds Kate Bancroft (opens in new tab), founder of Face the Future. 'Sometimes a hydrating spray is a better option.'

Toners that contain AHAs or BHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids and beta-hydroxy acids) are a different story, as they act as an exfoliating step in your routine. These may help if you struggle with breakouts, clogged pores or slow skin cell turnover, depending on the particular acid. However, it's important that you follow the guidance on using acid-containing products and introduce them to your skin slowly.

'Caution is required with the exfoliating acids - the AHAs and BHAs,' Dr Mahto warns. 'Commonly used AHAs in skincare include glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and BHAs include salicylic acid. These can lead to dryness, flaking, itching, sensitivity and irritation if they are overused.

'Those who are more likely to develop sensitivity include those with dry or sensitive skin or a predisposition to skin conditions such as eczema or rosacea.'

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PIXI Glow Tonic, £18 | Lookfantastic (opens in new tab)
One of the most famous toners around. It's an ideal step for the morning routine as it brightens skin, giving you a glowy boost for the day.
Health Editor, Ally Head, tells us why she loves it so: 'Super - and I mean, super - easy to apply. Squirt onto a cotton pad (reusable, ideally) and swipe over your face and voila. It's really affordable, coming in at under £20. Plus, my skin definitely appears a little lighter, brighter and smoother when I've used it. Even though it does tingle a little, which you'd think would play havoc on my sensitive skin, I've never experienced any adverse side effects. I used it once or twice a week, just to be on the safe side.'

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3. Serums

Next in your routine comes the best face serums (opens in new tab). In the morning, it's a good idea to use one of the best vitamin C serums (opens in new tab) as it offers additional protection for skin during the day. 'After cleansing, using an antioxidant serum containing vitamin C can help with skin brightening, as well as helping against harmful molecules known as free radicals, which lead to premature skin ageing,' Dr Mahto explains.

Hydrating serums can be used at any time of day, so you may want add one in here, too. (Layered before your treatment serum if you're doubling up.)

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The Inkey List Hyaluronic Acid Serum, £6.99 | Sephora (opens in new tab)

Everyone benefits from using a hyaluronic acid serum. It hydrates and gives skin a youthful bounce, which in turn brightens the skin.
'I tell anyone and everyone that they must use a hyaluronic acid serum, no matter their skin type,' says Katie. 'But I'm aware of telling people to spend lots of money. With this brilliant serum, I don't have to worry about my recommendations.'

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4. Moisturiser/oil/eye cream

Depending on your skin type, be sure to choose the best moisturiser for dry skin, best moisturiser for oily skin or best moisturiser for combination skin. They may be humectants, attracting water to the skin; emollients, providing a protective barrier to trap moisture; or occlusive, preventing water loss. This is also when you should be applying the best eye cream (opens in new tab) for your needs - whether that's for dark circles, bags or perhaps wrinkles.

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Kiehl's Ultra Facial Cream, £28.50 | Lookfantastic (opens in new tab)
For 24-hour hydration, it doesn't get much better than this. Designed to work throughout the year, for all types of climates, this is a brilliant moisturiser.
'An absolute classic,' Katie says. 'This was one of my first ever moisturisers and I continue to go back to it time and time again. That's how much I love it. I love this version, but the one with sun protection is one of the best SPF moisturiser (opens in new tab)s out there.'

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5. Sun cream

Whatever your skin colour, sun protection is a must every single day – not just in the summer months! 'Using a sunscreen can help protect against skin cancer, as well as early onset of skin ageing, such as wrinkles or pigmentation,' Mahto confirms. In the same vein, a brilliant hyperpigmentation treatment (opens in new tab) is your BFF when it comes to preventing discolouration. Be sure to check out our edits of the best facial sunscreens and best sun creams for our top recommendations.

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La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMune 400 Invisible Fluid SPF50+, £18 | Lookfantastic (opens in new tab)
If you're looking for trustworthy suncare, you can rely on La Roche-Posay. This facial sunscreen is lightweight and blends seamlessly. Apply this before you head out of the door in the morning and remember to reapply. If you're wearing make-up, here are our recommendations of the best SPF to apply over make-up (opens in new tab).

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Nighttime skincare routine

1. Cleanser

Start by removing make-up and washing the day's grease and grime away – double cleansing comes into play in the evenings – again using your trusty flannel, microfibre or muslin cloth.

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Elemis Pro-Collagen Cleansing Balm, RRP £44 | Lookfantastic (opens in new tab)
One of team MC's favourite cleansers. It's a classic. Make-up melts away, breaks down the day's grime and leaves skin soft and supple.
'It's really key that you use a second cleanser afterwards,' recommends Katie. 'Not only will that help to further clean your skin, but it will also get rid of any residue from this rich balm.'

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2. Face mask (optional)

A frequently asked question is, where do the best face masks fit into your routine? The short answer is after cleansing, before all your other skincare steps, about twice weekly. 'Masks, if used, can be applied once or twice a week,' says Dr Kluk. 'I would suggest applying a mask after cleansing in the evening, then following with the rest of your usual skincare routine.'

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The Ordinary Salicylic Acid 2% Masque, £10.30 | Cult Beauty (opens in new tab)
Want to tackle angry blemishes and persistent blackheads? This BHA-rich masque calms inflammation and exfoliates the skin to purge pores of any unwanted grime.
'As someone who has PCOS,' explains Health Editor, Ally Head. 'Discovering salicylic acid really helped with my breakouts. This offers deep exfoliation, without any damage. My skin feels both smooth and clean afterwards. Do note - it's a bit messy to rinse thanks to the black charcoal. An ideal product for oily or combination skin like mine.'

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3. Toner

If you're a fan of toner, here's where you should add it in to your evening routine.

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Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant, £31 | Lookfantastic (opens in new tab)
This is by far one of the best toners out there. It's iconic for stopping spots in their tracks. Perfect for those with oily or blemish-prone skin.
'Quite literally the only product I recommend to those who complain to me about blemishes,' says Senior Beauty Editor, Katie Thomas.

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4. Retinol (avoid using with AHA/BHAs)

'At night, using a vitamin A product [like retinol] will help boost collagen production in the skin as well as even out skin tone,' Dr Mahto explains. Retinol (opens in new tab) is known for being a pretty potent potion, so on the days you apply it, swap out any acid-containing products to avoid any reactions. It's thought that this can make your skin more sensitive to the sun initially, so it's worth applying in the evening and always using SPF the next day. Which, we might add, you should be doing every day anyway!

'Following retinol with any other topical skincare will dilute the active ingredient, vitamin A, and reduce its effectiveness,' Bancroft adds.

Depending on your skin's level of sensitivity, you may want to avoid acids completely on the days you're using retinol (more on why later). If you're new to it, be sure to introduce it gradually and begin with a low concentration, like 0.3%. Every third day is a good frequency to begin with.

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Medik8 Crystal Retinal 3 Serum, £47 | Medik8 (opens in new tab)
If you're looking to introduce a retinoid into your routine, then Medik's Crystal Retinal range is the perfect place to begin. Start with number 3, and when your tolerance builds up you can make the move to 6 and then 10. If you have really sensitive skin, then there's a Crystal Retinal 1 option.
'In my opinion, there is no better way to introduce retinol into your routine,' says Katie. 'Start low and make your way up.'

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5. Serum

Again referring to The Inkey List's earlier advice, apply hydrating serums first and treatment serums second. 'AHAs, such as glycolic or lactic acid can be used throughout the week depending on tolerance and sensitivity to gently chemically exfoliate the upper layer of dead skin cells, leading to a brighter complexion,' explains Mahto.

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Decree Treat Tincture, £130 | Cult Beauty (opens in new tab)
This night serum has everything you could want in an evening product. Inside is a cocktail of ingredients that treat pigmentation, fine lines and wrinkles, and dehydration. The pipette also delivers the exact dose needed for the entire face, so there's no chance of using too much.

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6. Moisturiser/oil/eye cream

Finish your nightly routine with your usual moisturiser or the best night cream for your skin type. And if your skin is particularly dry, you could try layering an oil over the top to lock in moisture, but it may not be essential. Final step is your eye cream.

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Olay Regenerist 3 Point Night Cream, £14.99 | Boots (opens in new tab)

This is a night cream that our Senior Beauty Editor, Katie Thomas, swears by. She claims that she wakes up to tighter and perkier skin every morning after using it.

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Are there products that can't be applied together?

More and more of us are using potent skincare ingredients, like acids and retinol (opens in new tab), on the regular, so it's important to know which of the strong stuff don't mix.

'Vitamin A creams, such as retinol or retinaldehyde, may increase sensitivity to the sun and so should be applied at night – and SPF should be applied the following morning. The same goes for acids,' explains Dr Kluk.

While it's not an absolute rule not to do so, many people would find using the two at once far too irritating. 'I would avoid using multiple products with irritant properties at the same time,' explains Dr Kluk. 'An example of this would be avoiding the application of AHAs, such as glycolic acid, and retinol or any of the prescription retinoid creams together. Many people can't even tolerate using these on the same day, so my advice would be to choose one or the other unless advised otherwise by a dermatologist.'

Kate agrees: 'I don't like to mix acids and retinols at the same time; some skins are highly susceptible to retinoid reactions and mixing too many actives in one go is asking for trouble.'

These days acids come in just about every skincare form, from cleanser to toner, serum and moisturiser. So what's the safe limit for how many AHA/BHA products you can use in one go?

Which products should you not use during the day or at night?

'If you have oily skin or breakouts, choose salicylic acid. If you want to smooth and hydrate the skin, choose lactic acid. And if you want to brighten dark spots or treat wrinkles, choose glycolic acid.

'Antioxidants like vitamin C can be used both morning and night, but as they provide a form of protection against UV and pollution, it seems sensible to me to use them in the morning before heading out the front door.' Noted!

Why the order of your skincare routine matters

Generally speaking, the rule of skincare routines can be summarised as thus: protect your skin in the daytime – SPF, best BB creams (opens in new tab) and primers – and correct your skin in the evening – retinols, concentrated serums, and heavier moisturisers.

How many acid products is too many in one session?

It's also a good idea to leave some time between products to allow them to work into the skin. While this likely isn't possible when you're in a rush to get to your desk, even leaving a minute between applications will allow your skincare products to work their magic. Try cleaning your teeth, brushing your hair or making your morning coffee between steps to buy your products more time to absorb into your skin.

Generally speaking, the rule of skincare routines can be summarised as thus: protect your skin in the daytime – SPF, best BB creams (opens in new tab) and primers – and correct your skin in the evening – retinols, concentrated serums, and heavier moisturisers.

Why the order of your skincare routine matters

Having all the beauty products in the world at your disposal won't matter if you're applying them in the wrong order. This is because products applied in the incorrect order – or even too many products applied at once – will dilute or cancel each other out; undoing all your hard work. In case you need a reminder of the skincare order...

  1. Cleanser
  2. Mask (evening, max twice a week)
  3. Toner
  4. Retinol (evening)
  5. Serum
  6. Moisturiser/Oil/Eye Cream
  7. SPF (every morning)

It's also a good idea to leave some time between products to allow them to work into the skin. While this likely isn't possible when you're in a rush to get to your desk, even leaving a minute between applications will allow your skincare products to work their magic. Try cleaning your teeth, brushing your hair or making your morning coffee between steps to buy your products more time to absorb into your skin.

Here's to many good skin days ahead...

For more skincare advice and product recommendations, head to our Hair & Beauty section at the top of the page

Can lactic acid be used with retinol?

Together, they can brighten dull skin, hydrate dry skin, clear up blemishes, and smooth out fine lines and wrinkles. Although you should always be careful when combining two chemical ingredients, lactic acid and retinol can work together to revitalize aging skin.

Can I use lactic acid the night after retinol?

While retinol shouldn't be used with lactic acid at the same time, you can use them in separate routines to address skin concerns such as sun damage, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, texture, fine lines, wrinkles, and even active acne.

Should I use lactic acid or retinol?

Lactic acid works on the surface of your skin to remove dead skin cells while retinol works deeper in your skin to encourage the production of new skin cells. If you're trying to decide between lactic acid vs retinol, retinol is probably slightly superior as an ingredient.

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