Luxury comes in many different shapes and forms. And if you pick Croatia’s capital Zagreb for a weekend break, you’ll discover how unassuming things and places can turn into luxe travel experiences.
For starters, Zagreb is one of Europe’s smaller capitals whose historic streets are ideal for aimless strolling. The pace of life is slower and you can easily get to the city’s top attractions on foot. Still, like any capital city, Zagreb boasts a metropolitan flair, with many cool things to capture your imagination.
The food and craft beer scenes are flourishing, museums pop up at every corner and artisan boutiques add to the city’s vibe. Zagreb is also full of parks, promenades and green walking paths, which balance out the urban hubbub.
Here’s how you can spend a perfect 3-day break by mixing and matching all these experiences.
Day One
Spend the first day taking in the charms of Zagreb’s oldest part – the Upper Town. This hilly area, dating back from the Medieval times is perched above the main Ban Jelačić Square. There are several entry points and each is special in its own way.
You can first explore Dolac market – the largest and most colorful farmers’ market in the city. Soak up the sounds and smells of this ‘belly of the city’ and pick up some fruit in case you get peckish.
The other route is through Radićeva street. You’ll enter the Upper Town through the Stone Gate – which is the last remaining entrance in the old fortifications. This candle-lit passageway has been turned into a shrine to Virgin Mary. There is always someone praying inside and the walls are decorated with ‘thank you’ plaques – symbols of gratitude from people whose wishes came true.
The centerpiece of the Upper Town is the famous St. Mark’s Church which stands between the buildings of the Croatian Parliament and the Government. Its gorgeous red-and-white checkered roof is a true eye-candy. Make sure you also peep inside and catch wonderful artwork by Croatia’s most renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović.
Further from St. Mark’s Square is Basaričekova street – home to Zagreb’s oldest cafe, Pod Starim Krovovima. This cult place dates back to 1830s – the time when the Croatian coffee culture was born.
The bohemian café life of that time is connected with Croatian poet Antun Gustav Matoš, who brought the trend from his Parisian travels. The café has changed very little from the time he spent his days there.
You’ll see lots of artsy and bookish types in here who often combine their coffee with something stronger. I recommend trying one of traditional Croatian brandies, such as viljemovka (pear brandy) or medica (honey brandy).
Opposite from the café, there is the super cool leather boutique Koza run by the brother and sister designer team. Their leather bags are a fantastic mix of elegance and chic and all are hand-crafted with local materials. If you love accessories, you’ll have a hard time resisting them. And you shouldn’t, because for around $150 you can get a unique fashion item that is made to last.
Before you grab dinner, do more walking around the magical winding streets of the Upper Town. Each street corner oozes with history and mystic charm. You can turn into Demetrova street and walk inside the courtyard at number 11. Inside you’ll find the oldest remaining Upper Town well.
Then continue into Mletačka street and find Meštrović Atelier, which was the sculptor’s home and studio. Inside this Baroque villa, you can see more than 100 pieces of art that range from sculptures (in marble, stone and wood), drawings and lithographs. The house itself was designed and decorated by Meštrović himself.
In the same street, you’ll find the rustic Didov San (Grandpa’s Dream) restaurant. They specialize in the food from southern Dalmatia, the area around the river Neretva delta. This means you can feast on the eel and frog stew – their specialty. But you can also go for the dishes that are common throughout Croatia.
If the mystic atmosphere of the Upper Town hooked you in, you can go on a guided tour to further explore its mysteries. Book The Ghost Tour by Secret Zagreb that runs at night and reveals super interesting and eerie stories about Zagreb.
If you only have one day to spend in Zagreb, you can also check out this 1-day Zagreb itinerary for inspiration on how to make the most of your trip.
Day Two
With the whole day ahead of you, start early and go on a hike to Medvednica mountain. It’s a real luxury for a city to have a nature park on its doorstep. Medvednica is known for its lush forests, bubbling brooks and fresh air. But there are many historic sights to see up there. One of them is the medieval Medvedgrad fort.
If you’re up for hiking, then take the bus from British Square to Šestine village. Enter the park there and follow the trails to Medvedgrad. You can also get to Sljeme, Medvednica’s highest peak, on the bus that leaves from Mihaljevac.
Get off near Puntijarka mountain hut and walk to Grafičar mountain hut – this is the well known trail along the ridge and it’s quite flattish. All along the way, there are many huts where you can grab a bite to eat. The staple hiking lunch is simple but scrumptious beans stew and strudel.
You can read my full guide on Medvednica to get to know all its treasures.
From high up there, you’ll get the best view of Zagreb. And when Medvedgrad fortress comes into the frame too, the vista is phenomenal. Once you catch that sight, you can walk down and explore the fort from the inside.
By the time you get back to the city you’ll probably feel a bit tired. So it’s time to rest and lounge around in a café. Zagreb just got its first cat café that makes a wonderful and relaxing haunt. Go to Kušlanova Street 6 and mingle with 9 cats and other cat lovers in this cozy den.
When you get hungry again, take a short walk to one of the coolest restaurants in Zagreb. It’s called Veganšpek, which means vegan bacon – a contradiction in terms. But this says a lot about the Croatian food: it’s heavy on meat but it’s opening up to modern eating styles.
Veganšpek serves several daily menus, including traditional (meat-based), vegetarian and vegan. Today they had a Zagreb classic: pasta with cabbage and smoked roast port knuckle
After dinner, head back to the Upper Town to see Zagreb’s famous Museum of Broken Relationships. It stays open until 9pm and you’ll need less than an hour to have strong emotions stirred up. People react differently to the mementos of failed relationships, but they mostly end up inspired and ‘mended’. There is something quite healing in honoring the end of a meaningful bond.
From there, walk to Opatovina – a street just off Dolac market. In recent years, this area has grown into a craft beer strip. You can choose any of the pubs lining the street, but Craft Room and Tolkien’s House are most famous. Craft Room stock more than 150 brews and if you want to try something local, go for Zmajsko brewery.
Day Three
If you happen to be in Zagreb on the weekend, then head to British Square on your last day. This is home to the second largest farmers’ market in the city. But on Saturdays and Sundays, it transforms into a vibrant antiques fair where you can snag all kinds of nick-knacks. Browse old vinyls, books, period door knobs, even socialist memorabilia.
If the weather is nice, stick around for coffee on the terrace of Kava Tava café, smack on the square. This way, you’ll feel the real pulse of the Zagreb coffee culture. In case of rain or cold, find shelter inside Kava Tava just off the square. This place is known for excellent brunch and the staple dishes are layered toasties and pancakes with all kinds of fillings.
When you feel refreshed, walk to the Croatian National Theater and from there do the famous walk along the Green Horseshoe. This route takes you along the nicest areas of the Lower Town, connecting several stunning parks and squares. You’ll see some of the finest Austro-Hungarian buildings, such as the Art Pavilion on Tomislav Square.
Make sure you stroll around Zrinjevac park – the last stop on the walk. The locals’ darling, this park boasts centenary plane trees, a wonderful music pavilion and several eye-catching fountains.
When it’s time for lunch, turn into Gajeva Street and find Bistro Fotić. You’ll first be wowed by the wonderful atmosphere of this photo gallery-cum-restaurant. Food is excellent too and it combines the best of both continental and coastal Croatian dishes. If you like prosciutto, order pizza tiramola, which comes with slices hung on a line with pegs.
Three days is enough to see Zagreb’s top attractions. But the city also bursts with many quirky things that will appeal to street and classic art lovers, and history and museum buffs. You can find them all in my ultimate Zagreb Guide.
Where to Stay in Zagreb
When it comes to accommodation, you’ll love Art Hotel Like. This recently refurbished boutique hotel is housed in a historic building in the very center. The designer decor is swish and showcases excellent artwork and light installations. If you ask for a room in the attic, you can see the Cathedral from your window!
Andrea Pisac is a travel writer and Croatia expert. Follow her adventures on her Croatia travel blog. And if you’re looking for cool Croatia travel hacks, join her Facebook group Croatia Insider.
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